Best views in New York

June 17, 2016 - Gina

We woke to a foggy, drizzly morning so we just grabbed our rain jackets and decided it wasn’t going to slow us down. Breakfast (if gooey sweetness can be called that) was at the donut plant. I seriously don’t even like donuts but those beautiful confections are more a work of art than what we typically call donuts. We passed each flavor around the table so we could all be amazed at each one. After breakfast we headed downtown since we had tickets to the Freedom Tower. We arrived early and were whisked up 105 floors in about 40 seconds flat. It seemed even quicker since there was a “view” on the elevator walls as if we were in a glass elevator. We reached the top floor and watched a short video about the tower and then were left to marvel at the 360degree views from the massive windows. We could see every burrough of the city in its entirety and a lot of New Jersey. The Statue of Liberty sat far below us in the Hudson River as if it were no larger than a Barbie doll. Words and even pictures don’t come close to describing the views, so I won’t waste time trying.

After we left One World Trade Center we toured St Pauls Cathedral across the street. Although they still hold services here, it’s a moving museum in itself with so many mementos from the 9 months it served as a base for 9/11 workers.

Shopping was next on the list, along with lunch at an adorable but tiny restaurant in Little Italy. Maggie bought a knockoff purse from a man in Chinatown. This was a fairly easy transaction a few years ago but now we felt like we were involved in a drug deal with the exchange of the purse and the money to buy it in a phone booth.

Heavy bags in hand (mostly Maggie’s hand), we returned to our apt to drop them off. We couldn’t resist a short nap after all that walking before we headed to the meat packing district. We meandered through Chelsea Market and made a visit to the friends building. We stopped at a gourmet French Fry place and on to Washington Square Park.

Since we had tickets to the Upstanding Citizens Brigade stand up comedy show tonight, we took a subway to the lower east side. I’m amazed each time we emerge from an underground station, I feel like I’m in a new city. Every neighborhood has its own vibe, no 2 seem to be alike.

We were less than impressed with the comedy, these were the type of comedians that make you realize how hard it must be to get up and tell jokes (i.e. they DO NOT make it look easy). This was a little different from our previous experience with UCB when Amy Poler and some of the Saturday night live crew showed up.

Back to the apt before 10, Maggie and Olivia will have a very early day leaving for Central Park at 4:30 a.m. to see Demi Lavata.

Still no A/C- we are again promised tomorrow. So tonight we sleep with open windows to catch the cool night air and the sound of blaring horns and breaking glass along with it. But this is New York! And I’m loving every minute of it.

St. Paul's Cathedral across from Freedom Towers — St. Paul’s Cathedral across from Freedom Towers

NYC!

June 16, 2016June 16, 2016 - Gina

THE day finally came and it didnt come quietly. At 3:30 in the morning Olivia tiptoed into my room to tell me she happened to see a notification when she woke during the night that our flights had been changed and I needed to come and confirm it online. Our morning flight was already delayed (I later learned it was because of severe weather the night before causing problems with the morning schedule) and we were offered alternative flights since it would mean we’d miss our connection in Atlanta. Of course we weren’t the only ones this was happening to and seats were not easy to come by. We ended up with a new itenerary that took us through both Atlanta and Raleigh/Durham and then to LaGuardia. Olivia’s flight however, was to be a standby ticket only and since we didn’t want to leave her in North Carolina she spent 2 HOURS (2 TENSE hours) on hold with Delta. By the time we arrived at the airport we were already anxious but after we checked in and started chatting excitedly with Cara and Maggie we relaxed. For the most part I’m always able to see travel delays and mishaps as just another part of the adventure and rarely get upset about them.

Our original flight was delayed even more than anticipated and by the time we reached Atlanta we actually ran to the next gate just in time for the last call. (That’s a funny story I won’t go into). The remaining leg for North Carolina went fairly smoothly and we were finally in NYC! We took an uber into the city to the Airbnb apt we rented. Being close to afternoon rush hour, the traffic was worse than usual and the long ride allowed us plenty of time to adjust our senses to the busy city around us. We found our apt building in Hell’s Kitchen and found we had a 4th floor walk up (with luggage). The stairs in the old building were steep and narrow (a suitcase had to be dragged behind you- there wasn’t room to carry it beside you in the tiny stairwell). The stairs also had a decided tilt to the right (which Maggie called sketchy but I corrected her- it’s called character). A cute and clean apartment awaited us, but with a few more hiccups – the A/C was MIA (although it had been advertised) and the bathroom light didn’t work. We later obtained a promise from the owner to install the portable A/C tomorrow and fix the light, but for tonight we’d make the best of it. I have encountered similar struggles with properties before and I wasn’t really shaken, but I could tell Cara and Maggie were possibly considering checking into the nearest holiday inn. Not really, but it was getting harder to keep positive attitudes for sure.

There is always that moment for me when I go on any trip even slightly out of my comfort zone that I begin to question why I’m here and begin to believe that I’d have been better off staying at home. It usually happens quickly, often just a couple of hours after I get there. Luckily I also know that feeling will pass pretty quickly and I will soon remember my love of travel and be ecstatic to be there.

We left our tiny apartment and went to find lunch which was at Grand Central. We headed to the upper east side and shopped in some of the huge 3 story stores, we got a cupcake from the sprinkles cupcake ATM and rode the Roosevelt tram over the East River to see the skyline a little better at night. We rounded out the night with impossibly small but delectable cupcakes to take home. The day had turned out to be a success!

Our apartment was warm and stuffy and we felt this place deserved the name Hell’s Kitchen, but when you stepped out on the old iron fire escape outside our window you could see the Empire State Building’s tall, brightly lit antenna.

Our adventures are just beginning and I can’t wait to see what tomorrow brings!

The last few days (2-23 thru 2-25-16)

February 27, 2016 - Gina

Christian wanted just one more dive, but I wanted to rest. So the best solution was for him to go on a local dive with the dive shop in front of our condo while I got a massage. (I ended up with the better option I think) So we cooked a Belizean breakfast complete with homemade tortillas, eggs, beans, bacon, and fresh squeezed juice. We ate on the lanai where the wind was strong this morning, but since we eat almost every meal outside (or at least in an open air restaurant) we’ve gotten used to windy meals. And wind was a small price to pay for a view like that! After breakfast Christian got his dive gear together and headed out. I read on the balcony for a little while and then walked down the beach toward one of the several day spas. I stopped at a cute beach café and had a pineapple smoothie on the porch. Then on to my massage. I ended up at a place that was directly over the dive shop we had gone to Turneffe with. I actually loved the muted sounds of a dive shop in the background along with the relaxing music they played and the brisk ocean breeze to keep us cool. Amy did a fabulous job. I’m not one who even typically likes massages, but with all the diving my neck and back muscles were really tight. I left feeling refreshed and somehow lighter, and I even made an appointment for the next morning before we had to go catch the water taxi. Christian and I returned about the same time and decided to search out papusas for lunch. We really had no idea what to expect. We ended up with round, flat cornmeal based cakes stuffed with cheese and shrimp. They taste like a version of tamales but crispier and we were pleased. We spent the afternoon riding around a little and then to the lounge chairs on the beach to read and relax. We had dinner at “home” and soaked up the beautiful view of the full moon over the water from the balcony. The next morning we had everything left in our fridge for breakfast and spent some time on the patio. This was already the hottest day we’d had here with very little wind. I walked to my massage and when I returned it was time to shower, dress, and pack. We left the condo and headed for the water taxi. We were fortunate to get good seats on one of the newer boats near a window for the breeze. The trip to Belize City took over an hour but we were entertained by a group of young nurses from MD Anderson in Houston who were going home after a girls trip to Caye Caulker. At the water taxi port we ate a late lunch and took a cab to the airport. We checked in a couple of hours before our late flight. We talked to people around us who were also returning to the states from their vacations. People are endlessly fascinating to me, each with a unique story and a different perspective from anyone else. Finally we headed to Houston, sunset over Belize from the plane as we took off was beautiful. We arrived in Houston late and got the shuttle to our hotel. After about 5 hours of sleep we were up at 3:30 for our flights back to Mississippi. Sunrise from the plane was just as beautiful as the sunset had been. After a slight delay with our connecting flight we were back home. It’s such a strange feeling to come home after being away on a fabulous trip, especially for this amount of time. When I walked into the house, I was surprised at the floors. Although they’ve been done for about a year and a half, it was like seeing them for the first time. I remember this feeling when I returned home from the hospital after 8 days following my accident. So maybe its just that so much has happened I feel like it takes a little time to reacquaint myself with this version of my life. But all trips come to an end. It seems to take a few days to adjust to this faster pace and colder weather. But one thing is for certain, each time we visit Belize we are more sure that one day we will find a way to not have to stay….

Christian buying some local favorites from a street vendor

I just wish I could get along straw... — I just wish I could get along straw…

watching Christian leave on his last dive from the balcony

Dolphins, Lionfish, Stingrays and Eels (2-22-16)

February 23, 2016 - Gina

We headed to Caye Caulker on the morning water taxi for one last day of diving with Bert at Scuba Sensation. We arrived a little earlier than we planned so we spent some time walking around town. We loaded up a little after 9:00 and were joined by five other people. Troy was around our age and owns a dive shop in Colorado. There were also two young couples who were vacationing together. Everyone turned out to be pretty experienced divers so it made for a fun day.

On the hour long trip out to Spanish Bay (our Lionfish honey hole) there is an uninhabited island that has a canal running through the middle that serves a cut through. We spotted a lump on the water and the guys told us crocodile and manatee are both common in here. We got a little closer and a small pod of three dolphins came right toward our boat. Bert moved the boat forward slowly since the Dolphins like to ride in the current alongside it. We were all running from one side of the boat to the other to see them, and Christian stuck his GoPro in the water and got a glimpse of them the way too.

After the dolphins left us, we continued to Spanish Bay. On the way we passed the island they call Gallows Caye since prisoners were once brought out to hang here. And then of course we moved past St Georges Caye with the cannons still on the beach. The water was more calm today and I could hardly even tell when we went through the reef. The sun was so bright and warm that it was hard to even believe just a couple of weeks ago we were freezing after our dives out here.

Our first dive brought us along beautiful walls of coral. Our group killed a good many Lionfish. Troy hadn’t known to bring a spear on the trip and had gone to the hardware store this morning and fashioned himself one, and it actually worked pretty well. We definitely had enough Lionfish for ceviche on the boat during the surface interval.

On the second dive, I realized I was the only one who had not killed a Lionfish on the first dive, even the two girls with us had each gotten one after a few misses. So I put on the glove and Christian showed me how to use the spear. I had to do it right handed (not my dominant hand) because I don’t have the strength it takes in my left arm to keep it in the “cocked” position. We found a Lionfish and I moved in, not wanting to miss I moved slowly and got very close. I released the spear and it found its mark. Wow! I never would’ve thought I could do that. I killed another soon after and gave the spear back to Christian. We continued the dive not seeing as many of them as on our first dive. But we saw eels, a giant stingray busily burying himself in the sand, and lots of lobster. Of course there was the usual collection of brightly colored fish and large schools of blue creole wrasse. After about 50 minutes Christian began to run low on air and we ascended to 20 feet for our three minute safety stop. As we hovered I saw a Lionfish below us at about 35 feet. Knowing Christian’s air was running lower than mine, I took the glove and spear and headed down to get it. Success! I had to begin again on my safety stop but I was now 3 for 3 so it was worth it. Christian carried the fish on up while I waited my 3 minutes.

Once back on the boat we had the usual excited chatter about the dive. The sun was still warm in the cloudless sky and the water calm as we headed back to Caye Caulker. The beauty of the turquoise water and the small islands we pass along the way never gets old. When we finally reached Caye Caulker we headed to the fruit stand to get a variety of fresh juices (we haven’t been able to find juice so good in San Pedro) and said our goodbyes to Bert, Mike, and Zach. The water taxi took us back to San Pedro where we returned to our condo to shower and dress.

We’d been planning to eat supper at El Fogon, a local restaurant boasting Belizean food done in a bit more of a gourmet style. The open air restaurant with sand floors was beautifully done for an elegant island feel. We ordered and listened to the Belizean man play a keyboard and sing pop songs, some current and some as old as the 80’s. He used the myriad of sounds on his keyboard fully in a way that couldn’t help but remind us of Ross Geller. Just before our meal came I suddenly realized that I had left my wallet in the bag from the dive trip and neither of us had any money! So after we ate Christian hopped back in the golf cart to return for our money while I sat at our table about 20 feet from the singer and made awkward (unintended) eye contact. Christian finally returned to put me out of my misery. We paid our check and tipped the singer. After dinner we walked along the beach and out on the pier. The moon was full and glistened off the water in a wide path of light. The wind had picked up and had a slight chill to it.

Perfect ending to a perfect day.

(That seems to apply to a lot of days here)

Don’t judge a day by its weather (2-18-16)

February 19, 2016 - Gina

The excitement we had gone to bed with quickly evaporated when I awoke to my alarm at 4 am to find the room hot and to hear heavy rain pelting the thatch roof.

We needed to leave for the dive shop around 5, so we wanted to give ourselves plenty of time to get ready. But we woke to find that the power had gone off sometime during the night (with the flashing clock as proof) which had turned the air conditioner off and caused the water to shut off (thanks to the pumps losing power). We brushed our teeth with bottled water and Christian took our trash can to fill it with seawater for flushing the toilet. Of course at the front of our minds was the hour and a half boat ride out to dive at Turneffe (which we had already paid for and couldn’t cancel now). We called the dive shop to see if the dive was still on- yes it was. We had expected as much since the forecast called for periods of rain but not high winds. We grimly packed up our gear and just hoped for the best. We got a break in the rain as we headed for our golf cart and loaded up our bags. We drove through the sleeping town with very few people, and no other golf carts, in sight. We parked close to the alley that would carry us from Front Street to the beach near Amigos Del Mar dive shop. There were only a few people milling around at this hour as we tried on BCDs for the trip. They had two boats leaving early this morning, one to Turneffe and the other to the Blue Hole. We saw the large dive boat being prepared and I was relieved that we would at least have a completely covered area in which to weather the stormy ride. Fresh fruit, homemade cinnamon bread, and cheese was laid out with juice and coffee to accompany them. But I was too nervous (thinking about our bumpy ride to the Blue Hole last year, and wondering if today’s ride would be as bad) to eat anything. Just as I was convincing myself that it would not be a bad ride on the big boat, a divemaster came and told us we could go ahead and load our things on the Turneffe boat, which was the completely open 38 foot boat sitting just in front of the large boat going to the Blue Hole. Oh no!

The rain had started coming down heavily again and the divemaster advised us that we may want to go ahead and put on our wetsuits since we would be in the rain anyway. We reluctantly struggled into wetsuits while I weighed out in my head whether I was willing to lose the considerable fee of the trip by cancelling now. But in the end I decided that we had probably faced worse conditions than this on a dive, and I’d tough it out. When all 8 divers were ready to go Jaun, our divemaster for the day, gave us a quick briefing on what to expect. We’d do three dives with lunch provided between the second and third. We all made our way onto the boat and stuffed our backpacks into the dry compartment at the front. With wetsuits and rain jackets on (a strange combination) we settled in for the long, wet ride. The rain pelted us even harder in the speeding boat and we turned against it with our heads low to protect our faces (the only exposed part of our bodies). The rain continued for a while but we eventually outran it. The boat ride was not nearly as bumpy as I had thought it may be with the wide boat taking the waves easily. Of course we had not made it outside the reef yet. About halfway through the trip, a good distance south of Caye Caulker, we made our way through the reef into the rough seas beyond. The bone-jarring pounding of the boat after each wave along with periods of cold rain made the 45 minutes left seem like hours. As we approached the Turneffe Islands the water calmed tremendously and the rain stopped with tiny slivers of sunshine peeking intermittently through the clouds. We reached the spot for our first dive and we all quickly got ready. We rolled into the water one by one and descended into what can only be described as a real-life aquarium. Beautiful crystal clear water and coral of varying shapes, sizes, and colors surrounded by hundreds of colorful tropical fish. We moved slowly next to the wall of coral that descended out of sight below us. Lobsters hid in the crevices and under ledges and a few walked boldly across sandy expanses. Small coral-banded shrimp hid in coral tubes and green and spotted eels alike poked their heads out from their own hiding places. We watched in awe as a large, beautiful spotted eagle ray glided slowly and gracefully past us. Sea Turtles rested on boulders or swam effortlessly around us. Overhead we could see literally thousands of fish in large masses silhouetted against the backlit ocean surface above us. The 50 minute dive flew by and we soon surfaced to cloudy skies (no rain) and boarded the boat. The dive had been spectacular, and we all had stories to tell of our encounters with the marine life.

The hour long surface interval brought us another round of rain, but as soon as we went underwater at our second spot, I forgot about all that. The second dive was no less thrilling than the first. The landscape was slightly different here but with the same huge variety of marine life. Our next surface interval brought us near one of the small islands on which was perched a fishing shack and a pile of conch shells. We anchored near the beach and had a lunch of traditional stew chicken and rice and beans along with potato salad. We all hungrily dug into the food. After lunch Juan took all the leftover food to the fishermen on the island, while the boat captain, Alex, entertained us with stories of his wilder days of feeding eels with fish held between his teeth which stopped when he was bitten by one trying to get to the food (as he showed us the scars to back it up). We were finally ready for the third and final dive of the day. It had turned into a warm partly, cloudy day with only mild wind. The third dive was again similar to the first two and did not disappoint. We came back onboard and prepared for the return trip.

It had been on my mind all day, but now that we sat quietly during the bumpy ride back, I had time to dwell on the fact that today was the 5 year anniversary of my accident. Right about this time on that day I was also enduring a pretty rough ride, but instead of being in the stunning beauty of the Caribbean after fantastic dives, I was in the bumpy back of an ambulance with an armful of crushed bones and a morphine drip in my arm that I would soon find out I was allergic to. I had no idea in that moment what lie ahead of me. I had in mind I’d have one surgery to repair my arm and head home in a couple of days with little complication. But of course that’s not how it worked out. Looking back on that year I can see the blessing in the midst of the pain, but that day I could only see the pain. Even now I don’t actually know what life has in store for me, and I don’t really mean painful things (although I know there will be some), mostly I mean wonderful things. But what I know now is that I can face anything that comes my way. I felt God’s presence every step of the way then as I do everyday now. I’m now more courageous and more adventurous and I want to live life more fully. February 18th no longer brings tears to my eyes like it used to, it’s more of a melancholy feeling while remembering a painful time but rejoicing in how far I’ve come and how much I’ve changed as a result. I no longer am surprised when I have pain in my arm. It’s normal now. And that fact doesn’t upset me or make me question “why me”? Instead I see it as an inconvenient side effect of all the wonderful things God has done for me through something that seemed too horrible to ever be redeemed.

We returned to our hotel tired but happy after our 9 hour day on the water. We changed and went to dinner but talked of little else than the day we’d had. Realizing we have less than a week left of this incredible trip makes me want to take advantage of every moment. But after a rather arduous day today; tomorrows version of taking advantage of every moment may look a lot like resting.

To Blog or Not to Blog- that is the question

February 1, 2016 - Gina

As I sit on an airplane I am excitedly thinking about our upcoming time in Belize, but the strange thing is I’m also looking forward to writing about it. I’ve been rereading my blog from the time I spent in Belize last year and I have been surprised at how many things I had all but forgotten about. I love to write about traveling, and I love that I have it to look back on. So writing it all down is never a question. The question is where and with whom I should share it.

There is a little voice in my head that tells me that no one cares to read what I have to say because nobody likes me anyway (I cannot believe I just admitted that!). But I want to be done listening to that voice. Of course I know not everyone wants to read it, and that’s fine. But I’ve also been encouraged (and surprised) by a number of people who tell me just the opposite; that they love reading it! (And I thank all of you for that) It’s the vulnerability of putting it out there that I struggle with. But I want to live unapologetically! I plan to boldly grab every opportunity and blessing that comes my way. And while I am first and foremost writing for me, I also like to share my experiences (maybe because I personally love hearing about other people’s travels).

So to blog is a given, and it will always be on blogsbygina.com. On most days I will probably share the link on Facebook, and if there are still days when the voice in my head is yelling at me that no one cares to read what I have to say, it will still be on my site.

I’ve found writing to be such a great outlet for me. It was therapeutic when I wrote the book the year after my accident. And when I write about the fun things, I feel more present because I am acutely aware of details I may have missed otherwise. Writing organizes my thoughts and helps me enjoy the experience even more.

Being on a plane is such a surreal experience to me, I feel like I am rapidly sailing to my destination on a sea of clouds and so my mind will need to transition very quickly. In the same moment I feel the sadness of leaving everyone and everything at home behind for a few weeks, but also the thrill of something new to discover just ahead. I can’t wait to be there and I also can’t wait to write about it!

Mountains of Memories

January 23, 2016 - Gina

When I first found out that Mallory and Olivia’s Christmas break was about a week longer than most people’s I immediately thought “VACATION”! Of course, my mind tends to go to travel at any opportunity. So now the question was “Where to go?”. Honestly, my first choice was Key West. The girls haven’t been there and I really want to take them. But, practically, it is a really long drive (flying wasn’t in the budget for this trip) and diving is a little hit or miss this time of year. So I began thinking of places that were a little more drivable and came up with Gatlinburg. I had been there as a young kid, but no one else had been there. And the fact that our neighbors go practically every year and love it helped convince me. So Gatlinburg it was! And we would add a stop over in Atlanta for their awesome aquarium as a bonus.

So I got the few details settled of renting a cabin in Gatlinburg and a hotel in Atlanta, along with a few show tickets, and we were ready. The drive was long and not exciting, but we made it in time for our first show. Now this was definitely off-season for the shows and all we could find playing were a few very small theaters. Our first show was a magic act. We were on the first row and there may have been 40 people in the roughly 300 person theater. The magician and his assistant (his wife) almost were looking us in the eye. The show was not bad, but not great either. We found a local restaurant for dinner and them made our way to our cabin in the dark. Our quaint little cabin with 2 bedrooms and a fireplace built into a circular structure was perfect. We saw in the morning the nice views of the mountains from the deck.

Over the next few days we visited Smokey Mountain National Park a few different times. It is really a beautiful place, with streams and waterfalls along the road. We pulled off to take pictures of picturesque mountain views and small waterfalls. We drove up to cades cove, which had been the site of a small community until the land was purchased to make it a national park. We saw countless deer and turkeys and even a coyote playing in a field like a puppy. But even with all the beauty around me, I couldn’t help but wonder why I didn’t feel more awed by it? I was looking for the feeling I get every time I look at the Caribbean, a sense of wonder that anything so beautiful and peaceful actually exists. But I guess to each his own. The mountains were majestic and there was beauty everywhere I turned, but for me it’s just not to awe-inspiring beauty of the Caribbean.

My favorite part of the trip was not the scenery, it was my family. We took one particularly cold, overcast day to build a fire in our cabin, watch a movie, play games, and just have fun hanging our together. If I’m honest, this was the intention of the trip for me anyway. The older the girls get the more I cherish every moment like this. Just the four of us laughing together. I will gladly welcome expansion in our family when the girls get married and have children, but I want to savor these last moments before that time comes. The point of the trip for me was to build more memories of fun times together. These won’t end, but they will change. And while I have learned to welcome change, it can’t help but feel bittersweet. But I have also learned that what God has in store for me is most often even better than what I have now. But I think it is only human to want to hang on to the wonderful things you have now, which is the known, and to be a little apprehensive of the unknowns of the future. But I trust Him! And I both cherish the moments I have now and look forward to what He has for us in the future.

After leaving Gatlinburg, we headed to Atlanta. Our first stop there was at the World of Coke. Wow! I was not impressed with the product of coke so much as the genius behind its history. People who, over a hundred years ago, figured out that people really just want to buy happiness. They simply convinced people that their product would lead them to happiness and that’s still the marketing plan apparently, since the film we watched as soon as we entered was entitled “Happiness in All Around Us”. It really had nothing to do with Coke but was very touching, and did show a few people drinking Coke near the end. Wow! Are we really that gullible to believe that a drink that is actually very bad for your health actually makes us happy? Judging by the size of the Coke empire, I guess we are. So I took away with me not a love of Coke, but a determination not to fall so easily for slick marketing and to determine myself what makes me happy.

That night was a birthday celebration at the Melting Pot for the girls; delicious! The next day took us to the Georgia Aquarium. I have been to 4 or 5 aquariums in different cities, but none are as great as the Georgia Aquarium. This strikes that same chord of awe in me as the Caribbean does. The diversity and beauty of the marine life we saw was astounding. A volunteer named Leigh came up and asked us if we’d like to visit behind the scenes. Um, Yes Please! She took us to the feeding areas above many of the tanks and exhibits and explained a little about the aquarium itself and the way it worked. Only about 20% of the people working at the aquarium were paid employees, the rest were volunteers! Many, like her, had been there since before it opened. The aquarium treats their volunteer staff as well as their employees with benefits that increase the longer you volunteer. Of course, working around the marine life is a huge draw for most of them. They get to do things like swim in the tanks with whale sharks and rays, interact with otters, and feed penguins. I thought for more than a minute about moving to Atlanta so I could volunteer too!

We headed home at last. We bought tickets for the 1.5 billion dollar lottery but we didn’t win (this blog was be a little different if we had). All in all a very successful trip, filled with memories we will carry with us for years to come. Travel seems to provide these moments more readily than anything else. Maybe its the change in scenery and new experiences that make those times stand out in our minds. We have lots of fun times at home, but while enjoyable they can seem routine. Every trip gets me more and more hooked on traveling, my appetite for it increases instead of being more satisfied. But I’m ok with that, in fact I count that as one of the greatest benefits of travel!

In the Gondola on the way to Uber-Gatllinburg

Out friendly volunteer tour guide – Leigh

May 26 – “On earth there is no Heaven, but there are pieces of it.” Jules Renard

May 30, 2015 - Gina

Today would be our most adventurous and busiest day in Puerto Rico, and today we would glimpse a few of those pieces of heaven on earth. They are found in nature of course, God’s own handiwork.

After our scrumptious continental breakfast and coffee made by our wonderful hostess Ana, we found a cab to take us to the airport to pick up our rental car. You never know what you’re going to get with cab rides. This time our driver seemed to be taking on the role of Puerto Rican thug. He sat so low in his seat that from directly behind him, I had an unobstructed view out the front windshield (which was not necessarily a good thing). He was on his cell phone the entire trip, speaking in rapid fire Spanish. That lasted until we approached the airport, he then said (in clear English), “let me call you back- I’m lost.” What?! How does a cab driver get lost at the airport? And why did he choose to say only that in English? He explained that they have moved the car rental agencies recently, so he was confused. Right. But he finally deposited us in the right spot. We went inside and claimed the Jeep Wrangler we had reserved.

Fortunately, since Puerto Rico is a US territory, we could use our cell phones without extra change which meant we could use our maps app to guide us to the rain forest. Unfortunately, we would soon find out that our map did not seem to know where the visitors center was. Once out of San Juan we were quickly passing through towns nestled between heavily forested mountains. We took an exit when the map suggested and took what turned out to be a scenic 45 minute detour through winding mountain roads. We saw some great scenery, but when we finally found someone to ask, he told us we were in the wrong area of the national forest. We then actually starting using directions from an article I had printed out and brought with us. We haven’t used written directions in a while, but they were infinitely more helpful in this situation.

El Yunque (pronounced ell June-kaye) is a nationally protected rain forest, actually the only one on US soil. It is also on the list of the world’s 7 wonders of nature. We stopped first in the visitors center, which was itself a beautiful building with exhibits designed to teach about the rainforest ecosystem. We also grabbed a sandwich at the snack bar. Our next stop was the information desk for maps to the park and hiking trails. We set off in our jeep to see the beauty we were promised at the visitors center.

Our first stop as we ascended the mountain was La Coca falls. It was a high cliff face right beside the road. We were able to pick our way through boulders to get a closer view of the beautiful falls. Although very tall, there were only small streams of water flowing over the fall thanks to recent drought like conditions in Puerto Rico. The thick canopy of trees only added to the beauty and I quickly fell in love with El Yunque. We seemed to be in an enchanted forest where we heard calls of birds and water rushing over rocks and gazed at trees and flowers as far as the eye could see. Our next stop was an old observation tower. We climbed the 8-story tall structure and were rewarded with an absolutely breathtaking view. Not only could we see rain forest covered mountains, we also had a panoramic view of the Atlantic Ocean. We could even makes out tiny white caps just past the tall buildings visible along the coastline. The blue of the sky almost blended with the color of the ocean, the blue being only a few shades lighter as the eye traveled upward. I could have stayed and enjoyed that view for the rest of the day, but we had more to explore. Our next stop would take us to a hiking trail to the La Mina falls. We parked above the falls and hiked about 40 minutes down the side of the mountain to reach the falls. The trail primarily consisted of steps made into the side of the mountain broken up by a thin trail made of stone and concrete. The infrastructure of this rain forest was already a far cry from the one we visited in Belize. The hike toward the falls took us along the creek which would feed the fall. The creek flowing sharply downhill over large boulders was beautiful in its own right, and we stopped several times for pictures and to climb out onto the rocks. We knew we were approaching the falls as the sound of rushing water increased and as we stepped from behind a stand of trees we saw the clearing where the waterfall fell majestically into the pool below. We were not the only hikers here today, and the pool below the fall was full of people enjoying the spectacular view and the chilly water. We stayed only for a few minutes to take in the view. A 40 minute hike down the mountain meant a “slightly” more challenging trip going back up. Might as well get started. We mostly kept up a good pace on what felt like 6,000 steps we had to climb. The sections that were merely sharp inclines became a welcome relief between steps, and the rocks alongside the narrow path became a place to rest as we let hikers descending have the right of way (it was less about being kind as it was about catching our breath). We finally made it back to the parking area in a little less time than it took to get down. We were tired but the glow from the experience of the rain forest made it all worthwhile. We drove the remaining few kilometers to the end of the road, from here you could hike a couple of hours to the summit, a feat which we (thankfully) did not have time for. We made our way slowly back down the mountain and back onto the small highway along the eastern coast. We had a little time before we were scheduled to be in Los Croabas, which was less than 15 miles away, so we decided to ride along the coast and see another town. We rode to Punta Santiago and wove our way through the small roads of a town that did not seem have been touched by tourism. We stopped at the beach area which was only occupied by a few families. A thin line of sea grass formed a wavy line along the palm tree lined beach. The water, while indeed blue, was a deep color and not the turquoise associated with the Caribbean. This eastern side of the island is technically on the Atlantic, but we were getting closer to the Carribean as we headed southeast. After a few pictures, we headed back to Fajardo to find something to eat. After grabbing a quick bite we were off to Los Croabas and the bioluminescence lagoon.

Once we found our way to the lagoon it took a few minutes to find Bio Island- the company we were booked with. Mostly kayaks are allowed by 10 licensed kayak companies but 2 companies are licensed to take motorized boats. From what I understand they were the first 2 who found a way to make boats work in the water that can be as shallow as 18 inches and no more license were given after those 2. Having read horror stories about hundreds of inexperienced kayakers paddling through a narrow mangrove lined canal in the dark, I chose the boat. Our guide Mario was very knowledgeable and soon had us well informed about dinoflagellates. When we started our trip on the small flat bottom 6 passenger boat the sun was just beginning to set. We headed for a narrow canal in between thick mangroves. The shallow water, while not particularly blue, was crystal clear and we could see large tarpon swimming near the protection of the tangled mangrove roots. We entered what felt like a tunnel of trees, so close in some places that I wondered if our boat would be able to get through. Mario took the time to explain that the dinoflagellates were microscopic organisms that are photosynthetic and so in the shallow water here they absorb light all day. When they are disturbed they put off a glow as a defense mechanism. These organisms can be found in many places but typically the concentration of them is too low to detect the light with human eye. Here, however, it is because of the unique way the mangroves isolate the lagoon that the concentration has become very high (about 750,000 of them per gallon of water). After the sun sets the glow can be seen whenever the water is disturbed. It last only a few seconds so the water must be disturbed over and over to continue to see the glow. After Mario’s explanation we were even more excited to see them. The boat finally emerged into a lagoon roughly round in shape, measuring about half a mile in diameter. The groups of kayaks had all retreated to various spots near the entrance to the canal, but since we were in a motorized boat, we continued further into the lagoon. Thick mangroves surrounded us with taller Palm trees visible behind them. The sun had just set and the sky was still brilliant with oranges and pinks silhouetting the distant Palm trees. Very soon it was almost completely dark and long poles were passed out to us so we could disturb the water. We all began swirling our poles in the water and the excitement was palpable as we all “oohed” and “aahed” in amazement. My camera was able to capture a decent image and Mario explained that it is a hard thing for cameras to capture except on very particular settings. Everywhere we dipped our pole into the water an explosion of neon blue light suddenly surrounded it. The boat moved slowly through the lagoon as we took in the awesome sight. The captain invited us to lean down and try the same thing with our hands, and when I splashed in the water and quickly withdrew my hand, drops of glowing water that lasted only a second ran through my fingers. When it was finally time to head back toward the canal, Mario stemmed our disappointment at leaving with a promise of yet another perspective of the dinoflagellates in the canal. Once inside the mangrove lined canal where no moonlight could penetrate because of the trees, the glow became brighter and water splashed up in the air with a paddle would glow like a neon blue fountain. As I turned to look behind the boat there was a large glowing circle following us as the motor churned the water. Just when we thought we could not possibly be amazed any further, Mario pointed out small white dots of light in the mangrove trees themselves. What we were seeing were bugs called click beetles whose eyes actually glow! (I’ve since looked all this up, and it is indeed all true even though it sounds like fiction.) Christian spotted movement in the water and the captain followed the large stingray he had spotted with his flashlight as he glided beside the water right alongside our boat. Mario used his flashlight to show us several giant iguanas living in the mangrove trees. Emerging from the canal was like coming out of a dream. Did we really just see glowing water? This may be one of the most unbelievable things I’ve ever seen, really because it doesn’t fit in with what I thought I knew about water. Although I’ve heard of this place before, I had somehow imagined the glow would be faint or at least certainly not spectacular neon blue!

After getting off the boat, we made our way back to our jeep in the dark. We all agreed this had been the a great day, seeing all these amazing things in nature makes you think about the endless creativity of God and the magnificence of it all.

Tomorrow is the day everyone dreads, the end of vacation and a long day of travel. But somehow this trip has been so wonderful that even the arduous day of travel ahead can’t curb my excitement. This has been a week we won’t soon forget.

Puerto Rico has been a pleasant surprise to me. The rainforest, the bioluminescent lagoon, Old San Juan, the beaches, and the impressive fortress were all amazing. And according to locals, this is only the tip if the iceberg when it comes to what there is to do here. The sprawling city of San Juan surprised me with its metropolitan area population of 2 1/2 million. San Juan and the small towns outside of it remind me of Miami and the small towns leading to the keys. Both are very tropical while at the same time American but they also have a definite Hispanic flair. I leave being very glad I decided to keep up with my blog, there’s no way I’d be able to remember it all without having it written down. But now, I can relive it anytime I wish.