If you listen- even the waves have rhythm. I would’ve liked to have penned that clever line, but alas we saw it painted on a building in Barbados by someone who is obviously more of a wordsmith than I.
I was somehow most excited about visiting Barbados, and the reason (although I almost hate to admit it) lies solely in the name. It just sounds so exotic, and it’s the only port not named after a saint. My first glimpse of Barbados, however, did not fit the image I had created in my head. I saw a green landscape with large rolling hills with ports and what looked to be factories near the coastline and house packed onto the hillside as far as the eye can see. This actually appeared to be the most industrialized island I’ve yet to see in the Caribbean. Although the island is roughly only the size of the metro Jackson area, it feels much bigger. This is the island closest to the equator that we will visit on this trip, and even the early morning air was warm and humid. The water was also some of the most beautiful I’ve ever seen. It was exactly the color pools are going for when they put in a bright blue/turquoise liner that changes the color of the water. When I was a kid, I didn’t know water that color actually existed besides in pools. We docked at what looked like a warehouse. Barbados is an entry port and Citizens of the UK and of Barbados board here instead of San Juan. About 150 people ended their cruise here today, and roughly the same number would begin theirs. The bulletin they leave in our cabins warned us not to wear or bring any camouflage onshore, as that would be illegal and would be enforced. It also warned us to wear bug spray because of something here that can be caught here that seems to be similar to West Nile Virus.
After leaving the ship, we took a cab to the dive shop where I had booked a snorkel trip for us. We were early (as we usually are) and the dive shop was running behind (as dive shops usually are) so we waited outside the dive shop at the picnic tables (and hammock for Mallory) watching the turquoise water and the birds and enjoying the beautiful morning. When we finally left we found ourselves on a small boat with one couple from the UK. Barbados was given their independence from England in the 60’s but they are still part of the commonwealth of the UK and most tourists here seem to be British. Even the locals speak with somewhat of a British accent mixed with a Jamaican like flair.
Our small boat took us not more than half a mile down the coastline to our first snorkel spot. Their is apparently no law against feeding the marine life here as in many countries, and the guides had bags of fish in hand as we entered the water. The first large, majestic hawksbill turtle came swimming rapidly toward the boat as soon as we stopped, and a few more had joined him by the time we were all in the water (they knew about the bagged fish apparently). We were allowed to get touch the turtles (being aware they may bite our hands looking for food if we came near their heads). It was such a surreal experience, these huge, beautiful turtles swimming right up to us. These turtles are very accustomed to people and were not shy. I got some phenomenal pictures and I can’t wait to see the gopro footage. After some time spent just swimming around with the turtles we boarded the boat to make our way to the next spot. A nearby marine park was the site of our second snorkel. Three sunken boats (the oldest from 1918) were in shallow water and had a variety of coral and fish living in and around them. The guides sprinkled crackers in the water to attract the fish. Sergeant Major fish were the primary species, and their yellow and black striped bodies would become so thick we couldn’t see past them. We also saw Bally Hoo fish swimming in schools just under the surface with their silvery bodies and long “noses” that made them look a little like tiny Marlins. The most interesting fish we saw was a Scrolled Filefish, it’s blue and black spot seems to glow when they swam near the surface and the light hit them. The oldest boat was actually very intact, and looked a little like what I might imagine an old pirate ship would look like. As divers we don’t often do a lot of snorkeling (because going deeper with diving usually gives us more to see) but this one was well worth it.
After returning, we spent a little time at the beach near the dive shop. Because Barbados is an island of limestone (and not volcanic) the sand is the most fine sand I’ve ever seen, with grains so small they are not visible to the eye and you can’t feel them with your feet. It feels like walking on a smooth floor, with flecks of pink sprinkled throughout. On a wall of stones near the water, there were thousands of the tiniest sea shells I’ve ever seen with snails curled up inside them. The remains of a huge old pier (presumably destroyed by a hurricane), formed a wave break to make the water calm and crystal clear over the magnificent sand.
When we had our fill of the beach, we took a cab into Bridgetown. So named because of a series of bridges spanning a canal that is cut right through the downtown area from the sea. The shopping district consisted of high-end designer jewelry and apparel shops on Broad street and knockoffs of the same things on the pedestrian street that paralleled it called Swan Street. Our cab driver recommended a local restaurant and we dined there on flying fish, jerk chicken, chunks of fried plantain, and green peas and rice (in which the peas were actually brown). I always enjoy sampling the local food, and the fact that we the only non-local customers here suggested the food was indeed authentic.
We returned to the boat and dressed for dinner. After our daily siting of elliptical lady, we had dinner and at one of the venues onboard we found Vinnie, our favorite musician on the ship, and listened to him for a while. After his set, he suggested we go see the singer brought on board just for tonight, who was phenomenal. As much as I’d love to stay up late and listen to music, these days in the sun and water are very wearing. We returned to the our cabin to find a cute little towel animal, the amusement this provides seems a little childish but we can all use a little childlike glee. Bedtime came earlier tonight – since we are scheduled to go diving once again tomorrow, I want to be well rested for it. I have no idea what to expect from St Lucia, but I’m always up for a new adventure.
My overall impression of Barbados was not what I expected. It’s completely different from any other Caribbean island I’ve ever visited. It seems like a tiny, tropical version of Manhattan with people walking everywhere. And while there are things for the tourists to see, they seem incidental and tourism doesn’t seem to be their biggest industry as it is in much of the Caribbean (we couldn’t even find any Barbados T-shirts except at the tourist shops at the pier). The water and the sand are probably the best I’ve ever seen, and if I visit again I plan to spend an entire day in the water, hopefully with the friendly turtles.