February 7th & 8th- Lionfish tacos and coconut bombs

Lionfish tacos and coconut bombs

When I was growing up, there were days with nothing planned that my Mom called “lazy days” and we loved them. But lazy day takes on a whole new meaning here. While unplanned and relaxed, lazy doesn’t mean no activity. A good deal of biking is involved in every day here, which is actually one of my favorite parts. I love the freedom of a bike, and it’s not something I feel comfortable doing at home anymore since my accident so I always look forward to that here.

We actually had found one cafe that offered gluten-free options and so we decided to have brunch at Caribbean Colors art cafe on front street. When they set an enormous plate of breakfast nachos in front of me it seemed a little overwhelming, but with Christian’s help (and since it was delicious) we finished most of it off.

The afternoon mostly involved sitting by the pool and some swimming while visiting with John and some neighbors who stopped by. Sher, a lady who moved here from Hawaii for a lower cost of living (still in a tropical paradise) shared her story with us. She had brought along her sister Jane, who happened to have been here last February as well and was on our team in the Lionfish Derby.

It was during this quiet afternoon that one of the coconuts from the tree behind the pool decided to let go and plummet the 30+ feet to the ground just behind Christian’s head with a loud crack. These green coconuts about the size of a… of a…. well of a coconut, are hard as a brick and can do serious damage to anyone or anything underneath the tree. We knew that, but probably didn’t take it too seriously that its such a real danger. I was a little more on edge than I wanted to be for the rest of the day and we certainly are more careful about sitting under coconut palms now.

Wednesday brought another spectacular day and another dive. We headed out to Spanish Bay again with Jessica from Nashville (although her entire family happens to be from the same small town in north Mississippi as a branch of my extended family) and Dave who is from Ocean Springs, Mississippi but now lives on Caye Caulker with his wife Carla. Together they own Pura Vida, a gorgeous little beach hotel where Jessica happens to be staying (ssoooo many coincidences for one day). The 45 minute ride to Spanish Bay was rough today, bone-jarring may actually be a good way to describe it. But the blue sky and turquoise water made us forget the rough water as soon as we were ready to roll into the water for our dive.

There seem to be an endless variety of coral formations since there is always something new to see. Just because we are back at Spanish Bay doesn’t mean we are in the same exact spot, and even within this area the underway landscape is varied.
In the course of our dives today we spotted turtles, eels, trumpet fish, hog fish, tiny drum fish, lots of lobsters, giant crabs, and the absolute biggest nurse shark I’ve ever seen. I wasn’t aware that nurse sharks could get nearly so big, he was lying in a valley between coral formations and as I hovered above him with the GoPro I saw he was more than twice as long as me.

Of course Lionfish were the main objective for the guys, and while they got a few on the first dive, it was the second dive when they seemed to be under every other ledge. Burt, the dive master/guide can spot sea life (including Lionfish) like no one I’ve ever seen. Even after pointing to something he sees we often still can’t see it for ourselves until we swim very close. Dives with Burt take on a whole new excitement because when he points, you know something is there you would’ve missed otherwise.

Dave invited us to his home for a dinner of Lionfish tacos. It was a windy but beautiful night and on the way to dinner we picked up the corn tortillas from a small restaurant for 5 for .50 cents, they had just been made and were so hot we could hardly hold them. I also brought along a version of a corn dip I make at home with whatever similar ingredients I was able to find at the market.

Dinner was on the expansive rooftop deck at Pura Vida with grilled Lionfish and all the fixings for delicious tacos. While dinner was indeed phenomenal, what I love is getting to know new people and learning something about them. Everyone has a story.

Everyday brings something new, and it’s exciting whether it’s diving or just sitting and visiting. I only wish I could transplant some family and friends down here to experience it with me.

The electric blue Queen Angelfish is my favorite
Coral canyons
Hogfish

All lobsters look happy
Lionfish come in all colors and sizes
Relaxing by the pool

Iguanas in the road

View at dinner
Lionfish tacos on the roof
Mississippi divers today
The Lionfish were big today

I passed on the warm bucket of pork tails at the market

And so it begins…. February 1-2, 2017

 

February 1st and 2nd

When I began packing for our trip to Belize last week I must admit that my heart wasn’t in it. I was almost too embarrassed by that to even include it here, I mean why wouldn’t my heart be in a great vacation to a place I love? With all that’s going on with our family right now (wedding planning, college, etc, etc), it just felt somehow wrong to take this time out to do something just for us. A trip can take me out of my comfort zone and leave me feeling unsettled until I get settle in, but this was somehow more than that.

Even after we arrived in Houston and sat at the airport waiting for our plane to Belize I thought, I am going to be able to enjoy this? And even wondered why we were going when so much as home seems to need our attention. At the lowest point of self-defeating thoughts I wondered if I still liked Belize, and tried in vain to count the reasons I’ve loved it on past trips.

Because we were late landing in Belize, my mind upon arrival was initially consumed with the question of how we would ever have time to make it to the island tonight (because planes and water taxis stop running before dark).

After making our way through immigration, baggage claim, and customs we raced outside to get a cab to hopefully make it to the water taxi pier before the last boat left. Our driver was about 75 years old and couldn’t have weighed much more than 75 lbs, but he immediately took our request seriously and although he didn’t think we had time to make it he was happy to try.

We tore out of the airport parking lot on 2 wheels and my first thought was, he’s gonna kill us on the way to the pier! My second thought as I looked at the surrounding countryside was, now I remember why I love Belize! I tried but couldn’t conjure up a concrete reason in my head, but instead I could only sense this intangible quality to the sticky warmth of the air, the palms that seem to be almost taking over the small homes we passed in various states of disrepair, and even to our friendly cab driver who didn’t find it too hard to chat amiably while he drove 80 mph and swerved around any cars in our way.

While I was busy philosophizing (in my head) about the beauty of Belize, we came upon a road block. A road block! The police were checking license and insurance right in the middle of our race to the pier. And although cabs do not have to stop at roadblocks here, we did have to wait in the long line of cars. Our driver was visibly upset! So much so that we begin to reassure him that it would be ok and we appreciated him trying his best, but we were obviously going to be too late now. We had made a reservation at a hotel in the city just in case his happened, so he drove us there instead. We would stay the night and catch the water taxi in he morning.

By the time we were onboard the 9 a.m. water taxi, the excitement of seeing the turquoise water was undeniable. Our friend John, at whose property we would be staying, was waiting for us on the pier. The feeling was a little surreal. The sparkling water and the spectacular beauty of the small island made me wonder how I could’ve ever doubted my love of this place. How fickle our minds can be! Luckily I’ve learned over the years not to always trust my thoughts, they can lead me astray if I believe them too quickly!

After unpacking we set out on our bikes (no cars are allowed on the tiny island) to re-familiarize ourselves with the quaint town and to pick up some supplies at the fruit stand and market. We spent the afternoon relaxing, reading and visiting with John on the pool deck before biking to the dive shop to confirm our dive for tomorrow. Dinner at Chef Juan’s small restaurant completed the night before we turned in early.

Now that I’m here I see the truth. It’s ok to take out a little time for ourselves, life will go on as planned even if I take a little time out. The beauty and laid back vibe of the island are just what I need to relax. Let the fun begin ??☀️

John Newhouse
Our favorite Caye Caulker resident

 

 

Water taxi terminal